The Complex Relationship Between Ireland and Food Through History
Ireland’s relationship with food has always been deeply intertwined with its history, culture, and identity. This is especially evident in the context of World War II, when Ireland maintained a policy of neutrality during a time when much of the world was at war. British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, who viewed this neutrality with suspicion, sought to exert pressure on Ireland through various means, including its reliance on food imports from Britain.
At the time, Ireland had no merchant navy and depended heavily on British trade for essential food supplies. Despite being a friendly neighbor, Churchill and his cabinet often applied diplomatic and economic pressure on the Irish government. However, Ireland was not without leverage. One notable example involved Seán Lemass, then minister of supplies, who withheld the export of Guinness intended for troops in Northern Ireland. This move forced the British to release agricultural products, highlighting the complex dynamics of power and dependency during the war.
This historical anecdote is just one of many fascinating stories featured in Irish Food History: A Companion, an 800-page publication edited by Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire and Dorothy Cashman. The book brings together contributions from 32 authors and explores Ireland’s culinary heritage from prehistoric times to the modern era.
Exploring the Depths of Irish Culinary Heritage
Food, according to food historian Dorothy Cashman, serves as a unique gateway to understanding history. “We wanted to introduce a new readership to a different way of viewing history,” she explains. “Sometimes, people are put off by overtly political history or are exhausted by social media. This is a different way of viewing it, and it’s maybe slightly more accessible.”
The book covers a wide range of topics, from ancient practices like bog butter preservation to the evolution of pub food and the rise of renowned establishments such as Ballymaloe House. It also delves into the significance of hospitality, which has long been a cornerstone of Irish culture. From the Gaelic and medieval periods to the 1950s and beyond, the tradition of offering food and drink to guests remains deeply embedded in Irish society.
One remarkable chapter discusses the customs surrounding wakes, where food and drink were shared with the deceased. In Dunquin, Kerry, for instance, wake goods were laid out around the corpse, with tea, bread, and porter flowing freely. These traditions reflect the deep cultural importance of community and generosity.
Addressing Hardships and Inequities
Not all chapters celebrate Ireland’s food culture. A section titled Hunger and Starvation in Modern Ireland presents a more sobering perspective. Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire highlights how the narrative of the Great Famine often overshadows the continued struggles with hunger in later years. Ian Miller’s chapter, for example, recounts the tragic story of a Protestant family in West Cork who, after losing their contract supplying food to the British navy, found themselves destitute. They were denied aid due to perceived wealth and ultimately perished in a poorhouse.
This chapter underscores the need to acknowledge the darker aspects of Ireland’s food history, including the impact of economic policies and social inequalities.
Language, Culture, and the Environment
Food is also deeply rooted in Ireland’s language and cultural heritage. The Irish word for road, bóthar, reflects the importance of hospitality, as it originally meant a path wide enough for two cows to pass. Such linguistic clues reveal the wisdom embedded in the Irish language and the need to preserve it.
Mac Con Iomaire emphasizes that understanding these traditions is crucial in today’s era of ecological change. “There’s a new generation of chefs tapping into this heritage,” he says, citing figures like Cúán Greene and Mark Moriarty. Their work draws inspiration from both traditional practices and modern innovations, particularly those seen in Nordic cuisine.
A key figure in this movement is Myrtle Allen of Ballymaloe, whose pioneering approach to local, seasonal cooking influenced global trends. Claus Meyer, co-founder of Noma in Copenhagen, was inspired by her work during a visit to Cork. His challenge to create a Nordic cuisine based on local ingredients echoes the principles that Myrtle championed decades earlier.
A Legacy of Innovation and Tradition
Myrtle Allen’s legacy continues to inspire. When she passed away in 2018, she was hailed as “Ireland’s greatest food hero.” Her influence is celebrated in the final chapter of Irish Food History: A Companion, which pays tribute to her role as the matriarch of modern Irish cooking.
As the book concludes, it reinforces the idea that Ireland’s food culture is finally receiving the recognition it deserves. With its rich history, diverse influences, and enduring traditions, Irish cuisine is now a rightful part of the global culinary landscape.
Availability and Further Reading
Irish Food History: A Companion is available on open access from EUT+ Press. A second print run will be available for purchase from RIA.ie and bookshops from the end of February.
