For several months now, the inhabitants of Middle Park have been gazing through the Venetian blinds at the structure located at the intersection of Armstrong and Erskine Streets, anxiously looking forward to its transformation into a local wine bar and bistro they can embrace as their own.
With great excitement building up, the 110-seater Middle Park European restaurant will have its grand opening on June 3rd.
The newest project from restaurateur Matteo Bruno’s Valarc Group (based in Richmond)
Tartine
, Windsor’s
Ines Wine Bar
And Sistine, along with others, aims to satisfy the local appetite for a refined dining experience in the Melbourne suburb, notes Bruno, who resides closeby in Albert Park.
I had seen this comic strip before and I was aware that there wasn’t anything quite like this.
When he purchased Ned’s Bake following its bankruptcy, he put the idea to the test by extending hours at the Middle Park spot, which according to him was something “the locals loved.”
Bruno anticipates that the same sentiment will apply to Middle Park European, which will be available for lunches through dinners, six days a week, catering to locals who can enjoy it either informally or formally as they prefer.
The front bar exudes instant coziness – think salmon-colored tiles, lime-washed walls, and vintage stained glass windows – offering a spot where you can stand around a high table with a cold brew, or perhaps some champagne paired with half a dozen oysters, as you await your seating.
Bruno describes the “backbone” of the space as a curved walnut-wood bar embedded with stones. This feature required input from a local boat craftsman due to its complexity. The bar extends upwards along the right side of the structure into an area lined with cork for the dining section, which includes booths and banquettes. Additionally, vintage cabinets procured from the Kyneton home goods shop called Kabinett contribute to the establishment’s well-worn ambiance.
Heading up the open kitchen is British-born executive chef Aaron Wrafter, whose culinary skills were honed at the Michelin-starred establishment Turners, which has since closed down, as well as at Harborne Kitchen in Birmingham. The menu he oversees leans towards Italian cuisine but includes French touches and offers an extensive range of seafood dishes.
First up, the caviar “dip” lets you enjoy this delicacy without splurging on a whole tin. Begin with a layer of crème fraîche, then top it off with Black River caviar, chives (plus some chive oil), and pickled shallots.
At all times, there will be two types of homemade pasta served in such generous “shareable” portions that Bruno needed to reserve larger tables. On the inaugural menu, you can look forward to freshly made tagliatelle paired with Shark Bay crab and bisque, as well as ridged shell-shaped cavatelli accompanied by pork-and-fennel sausage.
Essential fare comprises fish’n’chips and steak frites (such as porterhouse served with tarragon butter). Additionally, a specials board will feature rotating dishes updated every few weeks.
Similar to the cuisine, the wine selection leans heavily towards Italy and France, featuring some premium labels from Barolo and Burgundy. However, more budget-friendly options from local producers like Vinea Marson’s Barbera from Heathcote also shine brightly; according to Bruno, these wines can be just as robust as those much pricier varieties hailing from Piedmont.
Cocktails predominantly feature citrus and amari components, such as a spicy Margarita enhanced with Aperol and a salted-caramel espresso martini made with Averna.
Lunch and dinner served Tuesday through Sunday from opening time.
.
20 Armstrong Street, Middle Park,
mpeuropean.com.au
