Key Highlights from Paris Haute Couture Week
Paris Haute Couture Week recently concluded after four days of fashion shows that marked significant changes in the industry. The event highlighted the end of an era at Balenciaga, the beginning of a new chapter at Maison Margiela, and featured several unexpected appearances and notable absences.
New Eras
Demna, the creative director of Balenciaga, officially stepped down after a decade at the helm with a show on Wednesday. While the event drew a usual crowd of celebrities, it also introduced some surprising models to the runway. Kim Kardashian made a striking appearance, channeling Elizabeth Taylor by walking the runway in a sultry slip dress. Veteran French actress Isabelle Huppert also appeared, donning a turtleneck pulled up to her ears.
On the same day, Belgian designer Glenn Martens made his debut at Maison Margiela. Critics have praised his bold first steps as a successor to John Galliano, who left the brand in January. The New York Times described Martens’ “Artisanal” collection, which included thrifted clothing, as a “brilliant no-holds-barred debut.” Women’s Wear Daily noted that the collection shifted the Paris house toward a darker, more daring, and DIY aesthetic.
Armani’s Absence
One of the most notable absences was Giorgio Armani, 91, who had already canceled his menswear show in Milan due to health reasons. He also missed the Paris Armani Prive show, following doctors’ orders. In a statement sent to AFP, Armani remarked, “In 20 years of Armani Prive, it’s the first time I’m not in Paris.” He added, “My doctors advised more rest, even though I felt ready,” and emphasized that he had “followed and overseen every aspect of the show remotely.”
Cardi B’s Couture Moments
New York rapper Cardi B had a busy week in Paris, making several high-profile appearances. She opened the week at Schiaparelli in a traffic-stopping tasselled neckpiece and posed with a crow perched on her hand outside the Petit Palais exhibition space. The next day, she turned heads at Stephane Rolland with a sculptural black headpiece that resembled a religious shroud. On Wednesday, she was seen in the front row at Balenciaga.
The Rose Trend
Floral patterns were a dominant theme throughout the season, with roses taking center stage. Giambattista Valli adorned airy gowns with oversized fabric roses, while Elie Saab featured them on princess-style dresses. Armani Prive used pearl-embroidered roses, and Balenciaga incorporated rose sequin prints into a skirt suit. Robert Wun showcased black-and-white roses on a structured strapless crinoline dress, highlighting the versatility of the motif.
Other Notable Moments
Syrian designer Rami Al Ali made history by becoming the first couturier from his country to participate in the official Paris calendar. He was emotional at the end of his show, which featured exquisitely tailored pieces. Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf delivered a typically playful and sculptural spectacle, while Hong Kong-based designer Robert Wun further solidified his reputation with looks inspired by cinema and theatre.
