The Rise of the Celine Phantom: A Timeless Icon
The 2010s marked a golden era for the It bag, with Phoebe Philo playing a pivotal role in shaping this trend. As the creative director of Celine since 2008, Philo introduced two iconic designs that became symbols of fashion and style.
In 2009, she launched the Luggage bag, a boxy tote featuring distinctive handle placements and an exterior zipper. This design quickly gained popularity among celebrities like Nicole Richie, Lindsay Lohan, and Rihanna. According to Noelle Sciacca, associate director of fashion and strategic partnerships at The RealReal, the Luggage bag was not just a fashion statement but also a cultural phenomenon. “Whether you were in the fashion space or not, you knew what that bag was because of the paparazzi photos,” she explains. The bag’s unique shape inspired other brands to create similar designs, even if they couldn’t afford the original price range of $2,000 to $3,500.
A few years later, in 2011, Philo introduced the Phantom, a more spacious version of the Luggage. Inspired by Celine suitcases from the 1970s, the Phantom featured wings on either side and a long braided rope pull. Together with the Luggage, they were often called “smile bags” due to their distinctive look. The Phantom attracted a broader celebrity following, seen on the arms of Kim Kardashian, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Celine Dion, as well as models like Alessandra Ambrosio and Lily Aldridge.
Anais Rivera, director of procurement at Fashionphile, describes the Phantom as having an oversized, unstructured shape that gave it a bold and cool vibe. “It felt different. You could throw it over your shoulder with jeans and a tee, and still look elevated,” she says. For many, the Phantom symbolized a whole era, especially for millennials who dreamed of owning one but couldn’t afford it.
Almost 15 years later, the Phantom has become a symbol of nostalgia. Sophie Hersan, co-founder and fashion director of Vestiaire Collective, notes that the Phantom is closely linked to Philo, embodying “the ghost of Phoebe.” She likens it to a Hermès Birkin in its utility, calling it “the day-to-day bag for modern women.”
Michael Rider, Celine’s new designer, has reimagined the Phantom for his debut as creative director for Spring 2026. He reintroduced the bag with a slightly shorter and wider design, available in black, brown, and Yves Klein blue. Rider even played with the bag’s unofficial nickname, curving the zipper upwards to resemble a smile. Sciacca notes that this is a way to honor the brand’s codes while adding a playful twist.
The Phantom’s resurgence has sparked interest in the resale market. Fashionphile reported a 79% increase in searches for the Phantom in January, with a staggering 1,205% increase after the Paris show. On The RealReal, searches for the Celine Phantom saw a 120% increase on the day of the show, nearly doubling the next day. Obsessions, where users “heart” an item, are up 123% year-on-year; searches are up 263% year-on-year.
Hersan has noticed the impact of secondhand demand on the firsthand market. When there’s high demand for a bag, brands often reissue it in new collections. This trend is evident with Dior reissuing the Saddle and Chloé Paddington. Sciacca attributes this to nostalgia, noting that people who loved the bag initially want to reconnect with it, while a new generation adopts it for the first time.
Beyond nostalgia, the Phantom’s comeback aligns with a growing desire for large bags, specifically those over 35 inches. Rivera points out that with the return to offices, people need bags that can carry laptops and other essentials. The Phantom, she adds, is in a unique position to thrive in this context.
Sciacca agrees, highlighting the Phantom’s practicality. “You feel like you can be playful with fashion, but it’s a serious bag at the same time,” she says. The bag’s versatility and timeless appeal make it a valuable investment.
For those interested in buying or selling the Phantom, now is the time. Sciacca explains that supply and demand dynamics mean prices will likely increase as the bag becomes more sought after. “Scoop it up now, because if you wait a couple weeks, you’re going to pay hundreds of dollars more for it,” she advises.
