The Phenomenon of Lee Jaemo Pizza: Busan’s Beloved Slice
At 9:30 a.m. on June 30, the line outside Lee Jaemo Pizza’s Busan Station branch stretched down the sidewalk, even though the doors wouldn’t open for another half-hour. About a dozen people had already signed their names to secure their spot. Lee, a 23-year-old college student who had traveled from Seoul the night before, was among them. “I heard that coming early is the best way to avoid long waits,” she explained, standing with her suitcase beside her.
By 10 a.m., when the store officially opened, travelers fresh off trains flooded in with their luggage in tow. By 11 a.m., the waitlist had grown to include 82 groups. This wasn’t a weekend rush or a holiday; it was simply a Monday morning.
According to South Korea’s leading restaurant reservation platform, CatchTable, Lee Jaemo Pizza topped the charts as Busan’s most sought-after dining experience last year—beating out traditional favorites like dwaeji gukbap (pork soup rice) and barbecue spots. In fact, all four of the city’s most-waited restaurants were branches of this beloved pizza chain, including locations at its flagship store, Busan Station, and Seomyeon.
A Traveler’s Delight
For years, passengers departing from major stations across Korea have carried telltale signs of their travels—a tan paper bag from Daejeon’s Sungsimdang bakery or a yellow bag from Gunsan’s Iseongdang, Korea’s oldest bakery. Recently, a new icon has joined the ranks: a white plastic bag bearing a red pizza box emblazoned with the Lee Jaemo Pizza logo.
On the same June morning, several travelers at Busan Station were seen clutching these iconic boxes. Jeon, a 60-year-old passenger heading to Seoul, shared his routine: “In the past, I used to bring back eomuk (fish cakes) or bread for my grandchildren, but now they only want this pizza. Since takeout is quick, I make sure to arrive 30 minutes before my train to pick one up.”
Despite the challenges of transporting pizza—its tendency to cool quickly, cheese hardening and cardboard softening from trapped heat—Lee Jaemo customers are undeterred. Online forums buzz with advice on how to carry the pies without compromising quality. One popular tip suggests leaving the box slightly open for 30 minutes to let steam escape before wrapping it tightly and storing it in an overhead compartment, minimizing odor during travel.
Why Lee Jaemo Stands Out
In a city renowned for its seafood and street food culture, what makes a pizza shop stand out? The answer lies in scarcity and value. Founded in 1992 in Gwangbok-dong, Jung-gu, Busan, Lee Jaemo Pizza remained a hyper-local secret for over three decades before expanding to Jeju Island last year. Until 2022, the company operated solely its flagship store. Today, it runs five directly managed branches, including the bustling Busan Station and Seomyeon locations.
Seo Sang-ha, manager of the Seomyeon branch, recalled how social media propelled the brand into the spotlight around 2018. “It became known as a must-try pizza unique to Busan,” he said. During the pandemic, demand surged so much that lines grew to four or five hours long. Eventually, employees convinced the owner to expand, arguing that keeping customers waiting that long was no longer fair.
The menu itself contributes to its popularity. The signature Lee Jaemo Crust is a 33 cm pie featuring a stuffed cheese or sausage crust, available for takeout at 26,100 won ($19). Loaded with bacon, pepperoni, mozzarella, and cheddar cheese, reviews frequently note that one pizza can easily satisfy four women or three men. Compare that to similar offerings from major franchises, which often cost around 33,000 won ($24).
More Than Just Pizza
Beyond taste and affordability, the brand has built a loyal following due to its ethical business practices. Lee Jaemo Pizza is a Christian-run enterprise, and CEO Kim Ik-tae is regularly recognized in local newspapers for his charitable contributions, particularly during the holiday season. Interestingly, “Lee Jaemo” isn’t the name of the owner—it’s the name of his mother, symbolizing the deep roots of family and tradition embedded in the brand.
This combination of exclusivity, affordability, and community values has transformed Lee Jaemo Pizza from a local favorite into a cultural phenomenon. Whether you’re a traveler catching a train or a local craving a hearty slice, the red pizza box from Lee Jaemo has become more than just food—it’s a symbol of Busan itself.
