The State of Australian Wine: A Tale of Quality and Challenges
Australia’s wine industry is a testament to the country’s ability to produce high-quality, diverse wines. Despite facing significant challenges in global markets, Australian producers have consistently delivered exceptional products that reflect their unique terroir and innovative techniques. However, the industry is not without its struggles, particularly when it comes to international recognition and market diversification.
One of the most notable issues is the lack of interest from key markets, especially the United States. Despite the quality of Australian wines, many consumers still perceive them as being cheap or inferior. This perception has led to a situation where the U.S. spends more on New Zealand wines than on Australian wines, even though Australia produces some of the best value-for-money options in the world.
China, on the other hand, has been a significant market for Australian wines, with import tariffs imposed in 2020 causing a major disruption. These tariffs were lifted at the end of March 2024, allowing premium Australian reds to make a comeback in the Chinese market. However, this reliance on a single market poses risks, especially if political tensions arise again.
In the UK, which has long been Australia’s largest export market by volume, there has been a decline in both volume and value. Similarly, the U.S. and other major markets have also seen reductions, with only a slight increase in shipments to Canada. This trend highlights the need for Australian producers to explore new markets and diversify their exports.
Despite these challenges, there are bright spots. The recent tasting event at St James’s Church in Clerkenwell showcased a range of Australian wines that impressed even the most discerning palates. Among the standout wines were several Shiraz and Pinot Noir varieties, with some offering exceptional value and complexity.
For instance, the Tournon Mathilda 2022 blend of Viognier and Marsanne was praised for its balance and drinkability, while the Shays Flat Shiraz 2017 demonstrated the potential of cooler climates in Victoria. The tasting also featured several Pinot Noirs from different regions, including the delicate Murdoch Hill Pinot Noir 2023 from the Adelaide Hills and the more aged Tolpuddle Pinot Noir 2023 from Tasmania.
In addition to these reds, white wines such as the MMAD Vineyard Chenin Blanc 2023 and the Thistledown Roussanne/Grenache Blanc 2023 stood out for their unique profiles and quality. The Yarra Valley, in particular, showed great promise with its Pinot Noirs, as did the Hunter Valley with its Semillon.
Key Wines to Try
Here are some standout wines that highlight the diversity and quality of Australian wines:
Whites
– Tournon, Mathilda Viognier/Marsanne 2022 (Victoria) – 13%
Available at £14.59 from All About Wine.
– Thistledown, Walking with Kings Roussanne/Grenache Blanc 2023 (South Australia) – 13%
Priced at £26.95 from N Y Wines.
– MMAD Vineyard, Blewitt Springs Chenin Blanc 2023 (McLaren Vale) – 12.5%
Available at £30 from Hic!
– Cullen, Grace Madeline Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2023 (Margaret River) – 13.5%
Priced at £32.98 from Alexander Hadleigh.
– Grosset, Polish Hill Riesling 2024 (Clare Valley) – 12.1%
Available at £39 from London End, £39.95 from Hennings, and £47 from Berry Bros & Rudd.
– Tyrrell’s, Winemaker’s Selection Vat 1 2018 (Hunter Valley) – 12%
Priced at £49 from Vinvm, £53 from Hedonism, £54.25 from N Y Wines, and £57 from Australian Wines Online.
Reds
– Tournon, Shays Flat Shiraz 2017 (Pyrenees) – 14.5%
Available at £18.99 from All About Wine and £25.50 from Tanners Wine Merchants.
– Clonakilla Shiraz 2022 (Hilltops) – 13.5%
Priced at £24 from London End Wines, £25.45 from Vinvm, and £28 from Shelved Wine.
– Thistledown Wines, Where Eagles Dare Shiraz 2021 (Eden Valley) – 14%
Available at £38.95 from Lekker Wines, £46 from House of Decant, and £48.75 from N Y Wines.
– MMAD Vineyard, Blewitt Springs Shiraz 2022 (McLaren Vale) – 13.5%
Priced at £36 from London End, £40 from Shelved Wine, and £44.50 from N Y Wines.
– Irrewarra Pinot Noir 2022 (Western Victoria) – 13.5%
Available at £49 from Hedonism; the 2021 (not tasted) is £35.59 from Vinified Wine and £39 from London End Wines.
– Gembrook Hill Pinot Noir 2023 (Yarra Valley) – 13%
Priced at £49.50 from Parched Wine.
– Giant Steps, Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 (Yarra Valley) – 13.2%
Available at £49.70 from Vinvm.
– Tolpuddle Vineyard, Coal River Valley Pinot Noir 2023 (Tasmania) – 13.5%
Priced at £63 from 92 or More, £66 from Tim Syrad Wines, and £67.25 from Parched.
– Bass Phillip, Estate Pinot Noir 2021 (Gippsland) – 14%
Available at £72 from Baron Wines, £80.72 from Bordeaux Index, and £94.95 from Brunswick Fine Wines & Spirits.
Classic Wines and Regions
Australia’s wine landscape is defined by several iconic regions, each known for its unique styles and grape varieties:
Western Australia
– Margaret River is renowned for its Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blends.
– Great Southern excels in Riesling and Shiraz.
South Australia – ‘the wine state’
– Clare Valley is famous for its sleek, dry Riesling.
– Barossa Valley is home to rich, concentrated Shiraz.
– Eden Valley produces fine Riesling and Shiraz due to its cooler climate.
– Adelaide Hills is ideal for Chardonnay and alternative varieties.
– McLaren Vale is best known for Shiraz and Grenache.
– Coonawarra is famed for its Cabernet Sauvignon.
Victoria
– Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula are excellent for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
– Heathcote has a reputation for Shiraz.
Tasmania
– Known for its cool climate, it produces base wine for fizz as well as still Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
New South Wales
– Hunter Valley is famous for Semillon and Shiraz.
For more detailed tasting notes, scores, and suggested drinking dates, refer to the article Keeping faith in Australian wine.
